Windows Data Recovery Singapore

Most Windows data loss isn't a broken drive — it's the operating system writing over, hiding, or unlinking your files. Common cases we recover from:

• "Reset this PC" / "Remove everything" — a reset meant to refresh Windows wiped the personal files with it.
• Windows update or reinstall — a feature update or clean install placed a new system over the old files, or created a Windows.old that's now gone.
• Corrupted or deleted user profile — you log in to a fresh, empty desktop and your documents are "missing".
• Blue screen / boot loop / won't start — the PC won't boot, but the files on the drive are usually intact.
• Accidental partition format — a partition was formatted or deleted during a Windows install.
• BitLocker lock-out — the drive is encrypted and Windows now asks for a recovery key you don't have to hand.
• Deleted files & emptied Recycle Bin — the everyday case, still recoverable if you act fast.

Usually yes — but it depends on which reset you ran and how much you've used the PC since. A reset rarely erases files instantly; it marks their space as free, so they stay recoverable until Windows writes new data over them.

It depends on the type of reset

• "Keep my files" — your documents and photos are meant to stay; only apps and settings are removed. If they've vanished, it's often a user-profile issue and they're very recoverable.
• "Remove everything" — personal files are cleared from view, but the data usually remains in free space and is recoverable until it's overwritten.
• Clean reinstall or "remove everything + clean the drive" — the hardest case, though a quick (non-secure) wipe still often leaves data behind.

What raises or lowers your chances

• Time & use — every login, update and download after the reset overwrites more. The sooner you stop, the better.
• SSD vs hard drive — SSDs use TRIM, which clears freed data within seconds, so a reset SSD is much harder to recover than a hard drive.
• Whether a backup existed — File History, OneDrive or an image backup can make recovery instant (see the options below).

Windows offers several ways to "start fresh", and they treat your personal files very differently. Knowing which one you ran tells you how recoverable your data is.

Work down this list in order — the free, built-in options first, then software, then a lab if the data is critical or the drive is unhealthy.

1. Check the Windows.old folder

If Windows was upgraded or reinstalled rather than cleanly wiped, your old files may still be in C:\Windows.old\Users\<your name>. Copy anything you need out straight away — Windows deletes this folder automatically after about 10 days.

2. Restore from a backup

• OneDrive / cloud — sign in and check whether your Desktop, Documents and Pictures were syncing before the reset.
• File History — Control Panel → File History → Restore personal files, if it was switched on to an external drive.
• Backup and Restore (Windows 7) — restore from a system image if you made one.

3. Try data recovery software

No backup? Recovery software can scan the free space and bring back deleted files — but only on a healthy drive, and you must recover to a different disk. It won't help once data is overwritten, on a TRIM'd SSD, or on a physically failing drive. See our honest data recovery software guide.

4. Bring it to our lab

Come to us when the data is critical and there's no backup, software found nothing, the drive is physically failing or BitLocker-encrypted, or you simply don't want to risk a DIY attempt. We image the drive first and recover from the copy — a free diagnosis tells you what's possible before anything is charged.

Try these in order. The first two cost nothing and take minutes; move on to the next only if they don't bring your files back.

Method 1 — Recover from the Windows.old folder

If Windows was upgraded or reinstalled (rather than cleanly wiped), a copy of your old system — including your files — is usually kept for about 10 days.

1. Open File Explorer and go to your system drive, usually C:\.
2. Open the Windows.old folder, then Users and your old username.
3. Look inside Desktop, Documents, Pictures and Downloads.
4. Copy anything you need to a safe location straight away — Windows deletes this folder automatically, so don't leave it.

Method 2 — Restore from a backup

1. OneDrive: sign in at onedrive.com or open the OneDrive app and check whether your Desktop, Documents and Pictures were backing up before the reset. Restore from the online recycle bin or version history if needed.
2. File History: Control Panel → File History → Restore personal files, then choose the external drive your backups were saved to.
3. Backup and Restore (Windows 7): Control Panel → Backup and Restore → Restore my files, if you kept a system image.

Method 3 — Recover deleted files with software

No backup and nothing in Windows.old? Recovery software can scan the free space — but only if the drive is healthy, and you must recover to a different drive.

1. On another PC or drive, download a reputable tool from its official site — never install onto the reset drive.
2. Connect the reset drive as a secondary disk (a USB adapter is ideal) so nothing runs from it.
3. Run a quick scan, then a deep scan, and preview the results before recovering.
4. Recover any found files to a separate drive, then check they open.

A PC that won't start feels like the worst case, but it's usually the operating system that's broken, not your data. The files are still on the drive — the trick is reaching them without making things worse.

These are the situations we see most, and what each usually means:

• Blue screen (BSOD) / a "stop code" — a driver, update or disk error. Your files are almost always intact; repeated restarts and "repairs" are the real risk.
• Boot loop / "Automatic Repair couldn't repair your PC" — Windows can't finish loading. Don't let it run reset or repair cycles that write to the disk.
• "Inaccessible boot device" / "No bootable device" — often a corrupt boot record, but sometimes a failing drive. If the drive is failing, every power-on adds risk.
• Stuck on spinning dots or a black screen — usually software, occasionally the drive. If it's clicking or the BIOS can't see the disk, treat it as hardware and stop.

If it runs (or ran) Windows, we handle it — laptops and desktops, internal and external drives:

• All Windows versions — Windows 11, 10, 8 and 7.
• All Windows file systems — NTFS, exFAT and FAT32.
• Any drive type — SATA and NVMe SSDs, hard drives, external and USB drives.
• BitLocker-encrypted drives — with your password or 48-digit recovery key.
• Non-booting & physically failed systems — we remove the drive and, if the hardware has failed, repair it in our cleanroom (see hard drive recovery).

If the self-serve options don't get your files back, here's exactly what happens when you bring a Windows PC or drive to us — no surprises, and no charge unless we recover your data.

1. Free diagnosis. We assess the drive and tell you what's recoverable, why, and a fixed price — before any work starts.
2. We image the drive first. We make a sector-by-sector copy and recover from the copy, so your original is never put at further risk. A physically failing drive is repaired in our ISO-certified cleanroom first.
3. We rebuild your files. We reconstruct the NTFS file system and pull back your documents, photos, videos, emails and folders — then check they open.
4. You review, then we return. We share a list of what we recovered so you can confirm your important files are there, then hand everything back on a fresh drive.

Every case is kept strictly confidential. Your diagnosis is free and you approve a fixed quote before any work; for physically failed drives that need donor parts, a small non-refundable parts deposit of $80 to $250 by drive model applies, always shown up front. Most Windows jobs are turned around quickly, with an emergency option when you can't wait.

Once your files are back, five minutes of setup means a reset, crash or theft never costs you your data again.

• Follow the 3-2-1 rule — keep 3 copies of important data, on 2 types of media, with 1 kept off-site or in the cloud.
• Turn on cloud sync — OneDrive, Google Drive or Dropbox for your Desktop, Documents and Pictures, so a reset can never touch the only copy.
• Switch on File History — plug in an external drive and enable it to keep automatic versions of your files.
• Make a system image before any big Windows change, so you can roll back if an update or reinstall goes wrong.
• Before you reset — always copy your files off first, and confirm the backup actually opens on another device.

After a reset or a failed boot, the recoverable data is fragile — it's sitting in space Windows now considers free. DIY tools scan the live drive and can overwrite it; a lab works differently:

• We image the drive first and recover from the copy, so your original is never put at further risk (see how recovery works).
• We separate logical from physical faults — a reset is logical; a drive that won't spin is physical and needs hardware work, not a scan (physical vs logical).
• Free diagnosis & fixed quote — a firm price before any work, so there's no risk in checking.